To remind us that we weren’t in Kansas anymore, this East Coast greeted us with yellow eyed penguins and seals at its lighthouse. Waddling around in pairs (mated for life?), these penguins weathered the wind better than we did. This side of NZ seemed less touristy.  Dinner was cheap and when T asked if they had beers at one spot, they proudly answered they had beer AND lager! And a six pack of Speights for $10 (US 7.30), which was the best we’d seen.   To enhance the experience, we did our van camping on a bluff by the ocean.  A storm- the precursor to Cyclone Pam?- made for windy conditions and good surf watching.  The beauty of the self contained vehicle came into play this night, which was a perfect Friday 13.

We wanted to see Milford Sound and do some trekking, but time seemed against us with the van needing to be back and with routes taking longer than we thought.  We mapped out all kinds of options, and ended up with a coffee at a nearby town to think. Arrowtown maintained storefronts from its gold rush heyday, including a Post and Telegraph storefront which is still an operating post. We followed a town map around to the Gaol, which fittingly was locked, but had a note to come borrow the key at the info site if you wanted a closer look.   To get an adrenalin fix on our way out of Queenstown area, we stopped to bungee spectate.  T spent his energy admiring the old bridge and gorgeous water, while I talked myself into jumping 3 times and talked myself out of it four times. The other cardio workout of the day was biking the Otago.  We spent two days on the rail trail, catching up with sheep, deer and cows along the way. …

Uphill both ways To get our hike on (& our Asian weight down), we had a morning and afternoon hike.  We were inclined to summit the smaller peaks, which in the AM meant a great view of Wanaka.   In the road again, T passed the switchback driving test in style.  I took the wheel for a heartbeat, then we pulled over to a scrim lookout to watch a drone fly. This thankfully gave me the chance to give him back the wheel.  When I wasn’t bearing down on the armrests (like the kangaroo did to my hand with its sweet potato), I managed to take a brief video of the last one! At the bottom, Queenstown with all its adventure activity awaited.  After a stroll by the lake, we went up a “hill” to enjoy the views and see the paragliders sail down.  Again cursed with not enough time and many compelling options, we drove outside town to set up van for the evening.  A group of kiwis backed us into a spot and …

Leaving Aoraki was sad, as there was more to climb and maybe even swim.  But NZ is too vast and beautiful, so we forged on.   We didn’t get far before a sign for fresh salmon called.  Out if respect to my dad, we pulled over and did a new tasting.  The clever store owners had pellets you could feed the salmon, a Japanese barista in training and a fishy man packing up crates.   While waiting for my 67th flat white, we watched the fish jump.  Then we had sashimi, which sounds almost cruel but maybe it’s just river to table at its finest? Our next detour led us to Bryce Canyon- or a cliff walk.  After testing our patience and the van’s suspension on the gravel roads, we arrived at some pretty cool cliffs.  I tried playing hide and go seek with T in the slots, but he was consumed by his Ansel Adams ways.  I chatted with the few others there who marveled at the beauty, and then I marveled at the …

Day 2 with our van and breakfast started well.  We said goodbye to one flock of sheep and hello later to another, wondering which had donated their merino wool for our Icebreaker clothing which thankfully cut down in stinkiness and laundry at the same time. Smart wool indeed! Then we feasted our eyes on Aoraki, who you may know as Mount Cook. This sacred spot to local Maori has its own creation story which goes something like this: the Sky father (named Raki) took as his bride the Earth mother.  Raki’s four sons, including Cloud in the Sky (or Ao-raki) descended from the sky in a canoe to greet and explore.  They were out at sea, and said an incantation to return home.  Instead, the canoe flipped and turned to stone and the four brothers scrambled up, also turning to stone. Some say that like a king, Aoraki doesn’t always show itself, but rather hides in clouds.  We had a lovely royal audience, including hikes over swing bridges.  At night, we set up camp …

Seeking new experiences, we went the turtle way in New Zealand traveling with our home on our back.  Campervans aren’t familiar to us, but here a zillion companies offer you the chance to be free! Stop where you wish, cook your own meals, stay for free (possibly) at one of the roadside spots worshipping Mother Nature.  Put me in coach! Then the orientation: turn this valve to activate the gas, press that one to power the fridge, plug the van in for power here if the gauge here goes below this number, lock the toilet here or if not, well, people only make that mistake once.  Conclusion? It’s good to travel with an engineer.   Effectively, we became truck drivers for the week.  I now understand why the inventory for what jobs you are suited for never recommended me as a truck driver.  I believe another quiz suggested I partner with an engineer; that one was on the money.  Not only did he lack my fear of propane but he also didn’t mock me when …