Welcome to Chiang Mai, northern Thailand’s populous city (1 million counting suburbs compared to Bangkok’s 8 million and Dubai’s 2 million) and popular destination. When the overnight train rolled in right on time, we and countless other white people with backpacks, GoPro cameras and hipster hats descended on the town. Well accustomed to the daily infusion of westerners seeking solace in the northern mountain climate, the songthaew pickup loaded us up in groups of 8 and deposited us at guest houses throughout the old city. The overnight train put us in early, allowing us to unload bags but not fully check in to our room. With the morning to explore, we finally profited from local strength: massage time! $6 and one hour later, we were new people. “She walked on my butt,” I told the husband when we left the calm of the parlor. I was still awed by her balancing skills and strength. “She cracked my toes. All of them,” he replied. My sister did that for me for free when we were kids, …

A holiday at home, and a holiday for us too. The past 14 years, T’s company never had MLK day as a holiday and we seemed to making up for the lost time well now that we are 14 days into our adventure. Given we’d covered 2 palaces, 2 temples, 2 markets and 2 college friends, we took our 3rd day to slow down. We had a long stroll in the park, after having been tempted by Bangkok’s version of city bike rentals for the brave but not having the right access card (forget about a helmet!). We had a leisurely coffee and newspaper, and then met once again our friend for lunch. Life is good. We found ourselves wishing for more Bangkok time as we were packing up our things. We hadn’t seen the modern art museum or the rooftop bars or where the other 4 zillion residents were residing. But the train tickets to Chiang Mai had been purchased a month or two ago, so our time had come. At parting, our hostess …

We woke up early, eager for a way to try to repay a fraction of the kindness of our hosts. After making a pancake breakfast, we were off to Bangkok’s largest market – Chatuchak. It was rumored to have everything from exotic animals to handicrafts to flip flops by the thousand, and it didn’t disappoint. But the real find was my college friend and her son, who fortunately had gotten back early from a trip to facilitate our reunion. Playing auntie and uncle, we wanted to buy the little one ice cream and a puppy, but his mother wisely got him 5 toys for the price of one, a juice and mango sticky rice. We missed the cock fighting section of the market and I missed my friend immediately after her taxi pulled away. The afternoon found us at a second market. This smaller floating market would have been outside of our realm of possibility had it not been for our hosts’ concise directions, ticket purchases and companionship. We were munching happily on new snacks …

What could have been my friend George’s advice to me for my – let’s say fragrant – feet was instead being broadcast from a monk’s recording. It seems Wat Saket (or the Golden Mount) is aware that the steps to the dome shaped Buddhist shrine are slippery, and so has a recording to tell visitors that unlike temples, at the chedi you don’t need to remove your shoes. The relief of my fellow fragrant pilgrims was palpable.   We have had our busiest and fullest (in every sense) day. Bangkok, though not hot at the moment, is where we have received the warmest welcome of T’s college friend and his wife. They have opened their home and shared their knowledge; T mentions a love of grocery stores to scope out local snacks and they transport us to Gourmet Market, which makes Whole Foods look like the Russian Safeway from college. We were dropped in the morning at the Grand Palace and met at the end of the day at the new Dusit Palace. Though being …

Our last day at the beach was peaceful. We stayed at the deluxe (spider-free) side of the Eco camp, and found our land legs. During our morning walk sans cameras, we watched an elephant bathe and I secretly marveled at how an enormous animal (granted in a distance) delighted me while smaller ones inspired fear. We had a last seafood lunch while watching fishermen, and then were Bangkok-bound. I made T look up the lyrics to One Night in Bangkok and started singing it, and couldn’t put that genie back in the bottle. Cliche of me, I know. In Bangkok, we met T’s college buddy and were fortunate enough to stay with them. We’d sadly missed their wedding, but maybe it was all for the best as we now get to spend a few days with them!

The sky was a beautiful blue, the water super turquoise, and we were green. We had breakfast on our live-aboard snorkeling boat, which ended with our guide passing around a Dramamine, even taking one himself to emphasize this was a good idea. We went along, but an hour later wondered if we’d received placebos or expired pills. Though the crossing to the Similan Islands left an impression, the islands themselves were more remarkable. We saw moray eels, cuttlefish, sea stars, a flirtatious sea turtle or two, barracuda, needlefish, parrotfish, angelfish and many colorful more. I missed my parents who are snorkeling aficionados, and when I tried to take pics for them I nearly killed my iPhone. Seems waterproof cases require more careful closing than what my excited state allowed. Our boat held 17 passengers and 5 crew. Had my father seen our sleeping berths, he would have said “like hell!” and swam to the luxury yacht at the next mooring. But he might have liked chatting with the four Swedish grandparents there with their children …

While we had admired many a BBQ lobster at local restaurants, we weren’t looking to become ones ourselves. So we sought the beach and shade, and found heaven at a little restaurant/bar which seemingly does less daytime business. In other words, we had a near private shaded cabana, beers and private swimming at the Andaman sea. No German tourists nor clouds in sight, and no complaints from us. With a few lunch options in mind, we ended up with late lunch at a yummy spot featuring cuisine from Northeast Thailand. This has made us excited well in advance for Laos, as it was delicious. A knowing waitress advised us on two rather than three peppers, and suggested the other dish may be more salty than we were accustomed to having. Though T was thoroughly pleased with his meal, he found a second stomach when he saw the market setting up. The Saturday market is for locals and foreigners, and sells prepared foods, fruits, clothes, spices and probably much more. “Let’s just look,” I heard, and …

A SIM card, a seafood dish and a humid summery night marked our arrival in Phuket. The next morning started with a swim and a second forray to street restaurants. We’ll have what they are having, we told ma, plus an omelet to be safe.  A stroll around the area revealed coffee shops, construction of a fancy charter flights terminal, and a vendor driving with literally a pig’s face on offer. We were suppose to be off to a remote island, but we read it might rain and read a review of a fellow traveller having to wade with their bag through the mangroves; suddenly we were rebooked to Khao Lak whose past weather made it famous as the tsunami survival town. Turns out Thais drive on the left, which I associate with having been colonized. But this kingdom has its own ways, its own king and his picture around to prove it.  We arrived in the middle of the three Khao Lak towns to a lovely auntie with a warm manner to match the …