A last morning in Siem Reap. We largely spent our time plotting next moves. To compensate for a rushed timeline in Laos, we’d decided to slow down in Cambodia. But as each action has a reaction, this meant Vietnam would be the dream deferred. Most of our family and friends seemed most curious about Vietnam, and our detour is not just about being dissidents. It is quite likely we will come back to Asia and be able to dedicate more than 5 days to Vietnam. Plus, our Chiang Mai experience of pollution in towns with limited public transport made us wonder whether Ho Chi Minh/Saigon will be less hectic by 2018 when a metro will theoretically be functioning. But on to food. Our farewell Siem Reap lunch was at the booked-up Haven Restaurant. Known as a training ground for future chefs, wait staff and support staff, Haven would make Chef Ramsey proud. In addition to being a well-oiled machine, the food was delicious. Cambodian food has been a highlight, and we have done a lot …

We had one day left in our three-day pass to Angkor Wat, so we set out for the more distant temples and ruins in hope there would be more carvings than cameras. We arrived at a well curated Banteay Srei, known as the Citadel of Women or Beauty and dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva. Supported by Swiss aid, the ruins have a cloak room, restaurants and shops which are missing at larger sites near Angkor – for better and worse. For better, Banteay Srei has conservation lands surrounding it, with local farmers, water buffalo, chickens and the like which make it a peaceful setting. Aside from this good marketing, the children here have better skills. Two girls selling postcards glued themselves to T, and when their first sales tactic didn’t work, they went with this: That’s right – Hey, Mr Handsome Man!   We also went to the Cambodian Landmine museum, to show respect for more recent history. As my dad had pointed out prior, the US was responsible for intensive air bombing campaigns …

We had the bikes for a day, so to maximize it, we got up early. Not as early as those who wanted to see an Angkor Wat sunrise, as biking in the dark did not appeal to us! Our timing was good, as we arrived at Angkor Wat when the sun was rising and the crowds leaving on their way home to breakfast. We ate our breakfast on the steps and enjoyed being in the minority. Onwards, we explored some smaller spots, enjoying Preah Khan which formerly was a university for monks, a temple of the sword and small community. It is in a state of ruins with some restoration going on, including the Adopt-a-Garuda program! Our back roads took us to smaller temples and even over a bridge being occupied by a model doing a photo shoot! We landed back with the masses at Ta Phrom, the temple made famous by Angelina Jolie in Tomb Raider. Or, for the nature lovers, famous for the impressive way trees have usurped ancient cities. As our bikes …

Embracing new experiences, we got up before 7 AM to go to a Mexican bar to watch the Super Bowl! Seahawks fans were louder and prouder than the Patriots, and I’m not sure how much their shouting helped the local staff and bystanders understand the game! Strangely, the TV feed had no commercials during possibly the only time I wanted to see them! With a championship under our belt, it was time to head to the temples of Angkor Wat where fighting traditions and dancing girls were also revered. Built between 800-1350 A.D. Angkor Wat is actually only one of about 1000 ancient temple remains in the 390 square mile area. Angkor Wat itself is surrounded by a 2.2 square mile moat, which is but one feature making it a favorite sunrise destination. Our dilemma was how to get there on this 90 degree day. Eventually we set out on bikes to the temple complex about 5 miles from our Siem Reap hotel. The heat hadn’t stopped the other 6000 visitors a day from enjoying …