Year: 2015

More than curry

At home, all I’d heard of Penang was its curry. But on the ground, specialties are made at individual stalls and come with names as foreign as some ingredients. Roti canai is a popular breakfast bread, flaky and delicious like many pastries. Assam Laksa was the only dish on the menu at one little restaurant, which simplified their staffing numbers to two: chef/waiter and manager/busboy.   Noodles in a flavorful soup topped with spices were slurped up by a pleased crowd. Do note, every menu in Penang claims to serve a “Best of….”  dish.  Blue rice flavored with floral spices accompanied by meat and sauce was a Malay specialty known as Nasi Lemak, while double fried pork understandably was a hit at the Chinese shop re-opened post new year holidays.    Char Kway Teow (rice noodles with shrimp, chives, oysters and who knows what else) was best the first night at the hawker stalls, where we learned to order at the cart and magically they would find you at a table numbered but unremarked. I …

Greatfiti, Lithuanian style

Given Malaysia’s would be melting pot of cultures, would it surprise you to hear that their famous, traffic jam creating street art is done by a Lithuanian resident? Some street paintings started in 2009 but took off in 2012 as the artists integrated furniture props of bicycles, stools and motorcycles into the paintings. Now between meals, tourists pose with the murals, and follow the maps that show locations of 20+ paintings. Savvy peddlers wait nearby with souvenir shirts and books of the paintings.   In addition to these pieces, Penang offers two camera museums, a chocolate and coffee museum, history museum, batik museum and puppet museum housed in various store fronts throughout town. We made it to one camera museum, and as the chocolate museum was air conditioned as anticipated and had free tastings, it won a special spot in our hearts!

Setback city

Georgetown, Penang was touted as a larger Luang Prabang, Laos. Both are UNESCO towns for their architecture preservation among other things. Penang promises a food lover’s paradise, with new dishes, cheap food and infinite flavors. We fell for it, and fell into a tropical swamp! Temperatures rested between 90-97 degrees Fahrenheit, with humidity around 70-90 percent. In other words, you step out of your room and in two minutes feel like you’d done back to back spin classes. Strangely, the trip photographer did not document this. With Chinese New Year, it has been a calculus of which places are closed and when they re-open. The year of the goat (or sheep – same difference?) has not had the most fortuitous beginning. So, I could regale you with our mosquito kills and amount of hand washing per day, but it would bore you and make me seem trite when others are suffering this winter. So instead, I will focus on glass half full and give you Penang as it would like to be: food, art and …

Hunger Games

Sadly, the Petronas tower was closed on Monday, so we were off to the art museum instead. The Museum of Islamic Art was a lovely, well curated (and cool in every sense) refuge. We got ideas for future travel in their displays of mosques from around the world (Uzbekistan seems to have multiple treasures). We’d been too late the night before for a humongous fried chicken, so it was our next stop. No durian chaser. Then, back to the mall! We’d seen the shops, the grocery stores in the mall, the decorations. Now it was time to partake! While we’d skipped mall aquariums here and in Dubai, and mall roller coaster, we were in for archery! T- a lefty shooting with his right hand- had a methodical approach, where I let my summer camp memories kick in and the arrows fly! Why can’t they have this at our malls? Good fun! As our hotel was in Little India, we had a yummy Indian dinner. T briefed me from his history research on how Singapore had …

Duranged

Our first day in Kuala Lumpur was marked by looking for food we couldn’t find. Malaysia is known as a melting pot of sorts of Malay, Indian, Chinese, Indonesians among others, resulting in longstanding fusion cuisine and must try dishes we haven’t encountered before. When we couldn’t find one place, we went to the mall near the Petronas towers. The humidity and heat – 95 degrees and maybe 95% humidity – sent us in to the AC. In contrast to Dubai, the malls were full. They also were home to Chinese drumming, dragon dances and many decorations heralding the year of the goat! We’d been enjoying Manglish, the way some words are transformed here. Teksi=taxi, (others?) and T’s favorite: ice cream cone. After breaks at the hotel pool and gym (one of the things we have been missing a lot, second to a laundry machine?), we did find some noodle dishes and local foods. And for desert- finally durian! This notorious stinky fruit lived up to its reputation and must be an acquired taste. Likely …

Nama saya Maria

I think T thought he was off the hook for Valentine’s day, given we had the best present of travel and freedom from Boston blizzard #452. It was another travel day, and getting to Phnom Penh Airport was a bit like frogger as the car darted around dogs, motorcycles, tuk-tuks and trucks. I saw what looked like a ten year old boy out cruising on a motorscooter with his six year old bro hanging on. And a lot of trucks with chickens and pigs headed to market. At Phnom Penh airport, I had a small DQ blizzard. That or the number of juices could explain my weight gain. Hopefully Malaysia would be healthier, but one of the main attractions is food! We had our fastest transit time yet. From landing at Kuala Lumpur airport to walking into our hotel room was an hour. We were getting more efficient, but Malaysia also required no visa and had an express monorail which made it possible. We picked up our fifth currency in almost as many weeks (we …

Kepapeake

Crab palooza! Kep is another small town on the coast of Cambodia, as close to Vietnam as we will get. We spent three mellow days exploring here, and ate crab and pepper by the pound most days. When in Rome… Kep has been a seaside refuge of the elites in the past, and seems to be coming back. Aside ruined homes are emerging hotels and businesses, and the main road which is painfully small now is being expanded to a four lane boulevard. The crab market is one hub, serving up crab fresh from the back door – almost literally except there is no door. We learned in a tour of the pepper farm that the addictive green pepper on the vine is only good for 2-3 days which is perhaps why it hasn’t made a US debut. But dried, it is expo as black pepper. Red pepper is green ripened and dried with the skins on, but peeled becomes white pepper. Who knew? Rabbit Island was another stop from Kep, a 20 minute boat …

Kampot

Transit days are action-packed, emphasized by 007 films playing on the bus. We were leaving the big city for costal connections. First stop- Kampot. We didn’t know much about it, and I’m guessing its new to you. So here’s what we learned: – Kampot is famous for pepper (mostly green but also black and red) – Pepper is so plentiful here they add it to dishes by the vineful which is strangely not overwhelming but very flavorful. I didn’t hear much sneezing at meals. – Where there is pepper, here there is salt. Mined in salt flats! – There is a large community of Muslims here in southern Cambodia. Known as the Chams, this group is originally of Vietnamese origin but ethnically affiliated with Indonesia. They were one of multiple minorities persecuted under Pol Pot’s regime. – Though TripAdvisors ratings can be bizarre, when they are right, they are really right! We stayed at the number one hotel in Kampot and loved it. The number one restaurant was a one-man wonder and I don’t know …

The good, the bad and the Brooklyn

We’ve seen a lot of markets and malls, but they say Phnom Penh’s is not to be missed. The largest in Asia when it was first built in 1937, it was updated in after having been bombed in the Fraco-Thai war and then again in 1992. It is a spoke and wheel environment, so the center archway shows glittering gold and gems, then down one side is clothing, another produce and food, another school books and papers. One of the most interesting sections for us involved jeweler stands polishing, designing and crafting for clients who seemed to be getting the Chinese New Year holidays. No new bling for me, but lots of entertainment. We went for pulled noodles for lunch which was delicious and settled my stomach a bit from its morning mutiny. Then we opted for unsettling in an afternoon viewing of The Killing Fields. I’d remembered my mom talking about it, but neither T nor I had seen it. Conveniently, it shows all over Cambodia to generations of travelers like me who only …

You down with PP?

Our first of two full days in the Cambodian Capitol of Phnom Penh was on. We missed the morning aerobics in the park; one needed to be up at 5 am for that. Our walking tour started at a more reasonable hour, and included a coffee break. Turns out that two coffees here are about US$6. This lead T to muse about what the size and salaries of the expat community here might be like. We saw a few monuments, temples and the Supreme Court. We ended the am tour back at the Banh Mi shop, where there was fresh bread and a kind Vietnamese owner with a northern Cali attitude, thanks to his time in the Bay area. The pool was the best spot to conquer the midday heat, and catch up on our neighbor’s FaceTime home to England. She reports a lovely tour and her father has paid all her latest bills. I was willing to pay for a headset, or ask her dad to sponsor my noise canceling headphones. The evening in …